The Negev Desert
July 6
Today's my brother's birthday. He'll be two years older than me for the next 3 months 😅
#yaiknowhowmathworks Today has been AMAZING. Maybe my favorite day so far? We're not even halfway into our trip and already we've been asking each other our favorite parts. Here are some of mine ... -Kabbalat Shabbat at the Kotel. It was eye opening, great cultural experience, and our discussion helped me feel closer to the people who were there -Lunch in the Old City on the first day. The food was so good. Our food has been of similar caliber actually, but this was the first -4th of July dinner. Really good conversations. I'm becoming good friends with these teachers. -Today's lunch. 💯 |
We checked out of our Jerusalem hotel this morning. We got on the bus, and started heading south. THE DESERT. Honestly, it's a lot more green than I expected. 😂
Maybe it's because I come from Utah? I expect deserts to be less-green. When we drove to Masada the land was super dry.
Mark, one of the teachers from California, has been introducing me lately as 'mountain goat'. Our walk on Sunday was intense (so hot outside) and I didn't get as tired as the guys did. I remember when I traveled to Thailand, we did a really short waterfall hike and some of my group members said I must be an avid hiker... I think the altitude in Utah makes it easier for me to hike in other-lower altitude places. I'm definitely an average hiker compared to the people I hang out with. But hey, makes me feel accomplished here. 😀
Ori told us that in Israel, instead of saying; 'middle of nowhere' they say; "the end of the world and to the left". He said that's where we're going for the next several days. To the end of the world, and to the left.
Ori also said "the theme for the week of Jerusalem was- Everybody wants a piece of Jerusalem". Jews. Christians. Muslims. Palestinians.
"The theme for this next week? Nobody wants a piece of the desert."
We learn a few Hebrew & Arabic sayings here and there. Another saying we learned today, similar to 'some good days, some bad days' there's one about "one day honey, and one day onion". I'm not sure the wording on that... but something about honey days and onion days 😅🍯
A lot of food is grown in the desert. Drip irrigation. Israel is known to have the best tomatoes. So much so, they export them all. They import a lot of their tomatoes from Turkey because they export theirs. They grow peppers and dates as well. We watched a video back at Brandeis about how growing tomatoes with saltier water produces a really sweet tomato. They said they got *too* sweet and so they had to dial back the salt in the water. I want to try one of these *too* sweet tomatoes. They sound amazing. 🍅
We made a stop in the Yatir Forest. And we learned a lot. I'm always impressed by how much tour guides know. Ori is one of the best. 👍👍
The Yatir Forest is a manmade forest of pine trees. Around 50 years ago the JNF (Jewish National Fund) bought a whole bunch of land in Israel. A law has existed in Israel, since the Ottoman Empire... that if you own land you have to improve it in 7 years or else it goes back to the government. This law lasted from the Ottoman Empire, to the British Mandate, and still exists in Israel. I was surprised that this law still existed and Ori told me 'sometimes even if you improve the land, the government still decides to take it'. He also told us a lot of Ottoman law still exists in Israel. Anyway, so the JNF decided to plant a whole bunch of trees. Pine trees. 10,000 acres. It's the 'World's Largest Forest in an Arid Area'. Impressive? Too many qualifiers? Pine trees are grow well in a variety of climates. And they're cheap. The JNF had Jewish immigrants plant trees mostly in the 1930s and 1940s. The JNF did this so Jordanians could not take back the land (the aforementioned law). If you look at a map, they planted these trees right up to the borders of the West Bank (Palestinian territory). When the country of 'Israel; was officially established (end of 1940's) and Jews were fighting Palestinians for more and more territory, Ben Gurion (first Prime Minister) first focused on Jerusalem. Having Jerusalem was so important to the Zionist movement. But Ben Gurion's second priority was the Negev. (Negev is the name of the desert, Hebrew word for 'wiped dry') Why was the desert so important??? Access to the Red Sea. 👉 The ecological effects of this manmade forest? Stops desertification. The Yatir forest blocks a lot of sandstorms. But there are problems with pines- they burn really easily. And their resin is really flammable. So, even though they're cheap... when the JNF plants trees now they usually go with pomegranate, almond, carob, or oak trees. |
This week we'll learn more about the Bedouin community. (Bedouin comes from Arabic word for desert, one of many Arabic words for desert). I already learned a lot today. Bedouins are all over the middle east. They used to be nomadic. Traders. Herders. Owned camels. Traveled in caravans. Experts in the desert. They were the first to bring foreign goods to people. They lived this way up until 1960s. Nowadays most have settled down. The Israeli government established towns for them to move to. A lot moved, but not everyone wanted to. Some built houses out on their own. In 'unrecognized communities'. They're still citizens of Israel, but if you build a city without structure... it's hard to run. So those communities often don't have running water or electricity. There's also a lot of racism that exists in Israel when it comes to Palestinian / Arab / Muslim culture. Bedouin communities are Muslim. And often very religious.
Today we went to Lakia / Lakiyah- a Bedouin city and met with a woman named Amal Afawi. She told us her story. Her family owns the Huriah Palace in town. She said when it comes to owning land, only 3 Bedouin families own land (at least with certificates recognized by Israeli government) the rest of the land the Bedouins live on is owned by the government.
Today we went to Lakia / Lakiyah- a Bedouin city and met with a woman named Amal Afawi. She told us her story. Her family owns the Huriah Palace in town. She said when it comes to owning land, only 3 Bedouin families own land (at least with certificates recognized by Israeli government) the rest of the land the Bedouins live on is owned by the government.
Huriah Palace is SO cool. Amal invited us in, and taught us how to make maqluba. We saw this dish back at Brandeis when we watched the show about Israeli cuisine.
Maqluba means 'upside down'. It took a long time to make, but it was SOOO good. She told us she had already washed the chicken. That you have to wash it, then rub it with salt. Then 'wash' with olive oil. Then salt, then olive oil.
The first step to maqluba (don't worry- I won't give you the whole detailed recipe) is to fry the chicken. Then fry potatoes. Then eggplant. Then onions. After everything's fried, you layer in the huge pot with the chicken. Then you put rice (rinsed and mixed with turmeric and salt) on top. Then you add water and oil (preferably the oil you've been using to fry). She put spices in the mix too, but I wasn't listening to carefully at that part. Other people were writing the recipe down- I told them I'd steal it later 😉
After everything has cooked, you flip the maqluba.
Maqluba means 'upside down'. It took a long time to make, but it was SOOO good. She told us she had already washed the chicken. That you have to wash it, then rub it with salt. Then 'wash' with olive oil. Then salt, then olive oil.
The first step to maqluba (don't worry- I won't give you the whole detailed recipe) is to fry the chicken. Then fry potatoes. Then eggplant. Then onions. After everything's fried, you layer in the huge pot with the chicken. Then you put rice (rinsed and mixed with turmeric and salt) on top. Then you add water and oil (preferably the oil you've been using to fry). She put spices in the mix too, but I wasn't listening to carefully at that part. Other people were writing the recipe down- I told them I'd steal it later 😉
After everything has cooked, you flip the maqluba.
After lunch we went inside the palace. And Amal told us her story.
BAmal grew up in Lakia. She said when she was young, most people finished primary school, and then girls got married in their early teens. They would have babies by 20. She said not a lot finished high school. And University was really rare.
Amal finished high school and told her father she wanted to go to university. He said it would be okay only if she wanted to be a teacher. Amal knew that she could either go to University and be a teacher, or get married. So that was her plan.
But what she really wanted to be, was a nurse. She said that was considered a really shameful profession. Everyone in the community would judge not only her, but her family if she became a nurse. Her father was very against her studying to become a nurse. But she knew she didn't want to be a teacher. It is considered a shameful profession because a woman nurse would need to take care of men and see what was considered inappropriate things for a woman to see if she is not married to that man.
She went to her grandmother and asked her to help convince her father to let her become a nurse.
Her father agreed that she could apply, and then they would see. She applied, got accepted and her father said she could go to university to study to be a nurse on one condition, she would have to live at home and he would drive her to University every day. It was about an hour drive.
Amal told us she worked really hard that first year. She was the first woman Bedouin to ever go to nursing school and she knew that a lot was riding on her doing well. She said the first year was really hard.
She asked her father if she could stay on campus her second year. It was seen as inappropriate for a woman to sleep alone outside her home. She told her father she had been working hard, but she wouldn't be able to succeed if she didn't live on campus. She also had to ask permission to get a job to earn money for school.
She met a man she wanted to marry- a doctor in oncology from another Bedouin tribe. She brought him home to meet her family and asked her father if she could marry him. Her father said no. A couple of times. She said she had a right to know why. Her father told her, that this man she wanted to marry was from a tribe that practiced polygamy (some people interpret the Quran to say that 4 wives are allowed). Her father said he didn't want her to marry a man who could then go and marry another woman.
Amal went to her future husband and had him sign a contract. She told us this was unheard of. Bride and groom do not sign contracts. Her husband signed an agreement that said- he would marry Amal, but if he wanted to marry another woman, he would allow Amal a divorce first.
They were married. They have 4 children. 2 girls and 2 boys. One is in 7th grade, but the rest have finished high school and college. Amal changed expectations in her community. She advocates for more rights for women in a way that respects her community. She was so inspiring. She is on a board of 30 women who have created a system that connects doctors and Imams. She said in cases of abortion they have the doctors explain the situation directly to Imams and it's much easier for women to receive medical care.
She teaches other nurses. As well as tells her story to other women. Now, in her community 85% of girls finish high school and 60% finish college. She was the first nurse, now there are 300. She told us that initially the palace was named after her grandfather, who built the place. The first permanent shelter in that community. She said after many years she changed the name to her grandmother's name.
Why? She said her grandfather got many years of the recognition he deserved for building the palace. But her grandmother ran the palace for many years and she now deserved recognition. Amal. Is. Amazing.
Amal finished high school and told her father she wanted to go to university. He said it would be okay only if she wanted to be a teacher. Amal knew that she could either go to University and be a teacher, or get married. So that was her plan.
But what she really wanted to be, was a nurse. She said that was considered a really shameful profession. Everyone in the community would judge not only her, but her family if she became a nurse. Her father was very against her studying to become a nurse. But she knew she didn't want to be a teacher. It is considered a shameful profession because a woman nurse would need to take care of men and see what was considered inappropriate things for a woman to see if she is not married to that man.
She went to her grandmother and asked her to help convince her father to let her become a nurse.
Her father agreed that she could apply, and then they would see. She applied, got accepted and her father said she could go to university to study to be a nurse on one condition, she would have to live at home and he would drive her to University every day. It was about an hour drive.
Amal told us she worked really hard that first year. She was the first woman Bedouin to ever go to nursing school and she knew that a lot was riding on her doing well. She said the first year was really hard.
She asked her father if she could stay on campus her second year. It was seen as inappropriate for a woman to sleep alone outside her home. She told her father she had been working hard, but she wouldn't be able to succeed if she didn't live on campus. She also had to ask permission to get a job to earn money for school.
She met a man she wanted to marry- a doctor in oncology from another Bedouin tribe. She brought him home to meet her family and asked her father if she could marry him. Her father said no. A couple of times. She said she had a right to know why. Her father told her, that this man she wanted to marry was from a tribe that practiced polygamy (some people interpret the Quran to say that 4 wives are allowed). Her father said he didn't want her to marry a man who could then go and marry another woman.
Amal went to her future husband and had him sign a contract. She told us this was unheard of. Bride and groom do not sign contracts. Her husband signed an agreement that said- he would marry Amal, but if he wanted to marry another woman, he would allow Amal a divorce first.
They were married. They have 4 children. 2 girls and 2 boys. One is in 7th grade, but the rest have finished high school and college. Amal changed expectations in her community. She advocates for more rights for women in a way that respects her community. She was so inspiring. She is on a board of 30 women who have created a system that connects doctors and Imams. She said in cases of abortion they have the doctors explain the situation directly to Imams and it's much easier for women to receive medical care.
She teaches other nurses. As well as tells her story to other women. Now, in her community 85% of girls finish high school and 60% finish college. She was the first nurse, now there are 300. She told us that initially the palace was named after her grandfather, who built the place. The first permanent shelter in that community. She said after many years she changed the name to her grandmother's name.
Why? She said her grandfather got many years of the recognition he deserved for building the palace. But her grandmother ran the palace for many years and she now deserved recognition. Amal. Is. Amazing.
At around 4, we left Huriah Palace and drove to Kibbutz Tze'elim.
We're staying at a kibbutz in the Negev desert for the next 5 days. Kibbutz= Hebrew for 'to gather'. Kibbutzim were built around the beginning of the 20th century. Desert communities that shared everything. Communal. Communist. Over the years many kibbutzim became less communal, but the idea is to have your housing and food provided for. The kibbutz will own cars that residents can use when they need. Often times kibbutzim rent out rooms to tourists to make money.
After we checked in to our rooms, a few of us went to the pool. Talked about religion and travel experiences.
There were a few kids that live in the kibbutz playing at the pool, we hung out until dinner.
There's only wifi at the reception area here. My room's close enough to the reception area that I get reception #blessed 😉
Such a good day. Such inspiring people. ❤️
We're staying at a kibbutz in the Negev desert for the next 5 days. Kibbutz= Hebrew for 'to gather'. Kibbutzim were built around the beginning of the 20th century. Desert communities that shared everything. Communal. Communist. Over the years many kibbutzim became less communal, but the idea is to have your housing and food provided for. The kibbutz will own cars that residents can use when they need. Often times kibbutzim rent out rooms to tourists to make money.
After we checked in to our rooms, a few of us went to the pool. Talked about religion and travel experiences.
There were a few kids that live in the kibbutz playing at the pool, we hung out until dinner.
There's only wifi at the reception area here. My room's close enough to the reception area that I get reception #blessed 😉
Such a good day. Such inspiring people. ❤️
July 7
Hot day today down in the desert!
We learned more things about kibbutz today (and I think we'll also learn more on Saturday). Our particular kibbutz was built in 1947. It's 4x the size of the Old City of Jerusalem, and 400 people live here.
Back when the state of Israel was established the idea was that people should leave the city and live in a self-sufficient community. The higher calling was to be a farmer. Escape the bourgeoise. Embrace the proletariat. A lot of the immigrants were coming from Eastern Europe if this idea sounds communist / socialist to you... it's because it is. A utopia where everyone shares everything and everyone contributes. Especially in a time when there's not a lot of resources to go around, this way of living sounds great. That was the dream of the kibbutz. They were built on Israel's borders, again, to establish that this was supposed to be a Jewish nation. Kibbutzim are Jewish. There aren't any ultra-orthodox / Haredi kibbutz, but there are similarities in the way they both handle property.
In kibbutz 40 years ago, you would have children and then send them to live in the children's house in the kibbutz. The children didn't belong to you, they belonged to the community. Truly communal. If you worked outside the kibbutz, you would share you wages and the kibbutz would provide for your needs.
In 195o there was a huge wave of Arab immigrants and kibbutzim were not really a sustainable solution. Especially if you come from a place where communism isn't really taught or embraced.
The government built 'development towns' for these new immigrants. They would arrive in Israel (Israel is always recruiting Jews to move here. One of the other teachers, Mark, was approached at the Western Wall and given information about immigrating). and they would be put on a truck and taken town development towns and / or temporary housing. Having nomads inside your borders often causes problems for governments. Nomads don't pay taxes and they usually have a reputation of being thieves and robbers.
Many of these new immigrants went to work in kibbutzim, but didn't live there. Kibbutzim used to be very agriculture based, now not as much. They hire out agricultural work. Thai workers on work visas. most kibbutz members work in cities.
I recently finished a book called The Secret Life of Groceries that had a section on exploiting workers from Thailand. It had a really awful story about taking advantage of people living in poverty, sneaking them illegally into another country and then not paying them a living wage. They didn't have enough money to leave and they were afraid to escape because they knew they were illegal immigrants. They were severely physically abused. I know that isn't necessarily the case here, but I couldn't help but be reminded of outsourcing labor because it's cheaper. Possibly taking advantage?
There was lots of racial discrimination when they had Arab immigrants working on kibbutzim. Still is. Ori told us development towns are still looked down on. They receive less government funding. There's a town down here called Ofaqim, which is a development town. There are so many different types of places to live!
We also learned about moshav - somewhere between a kibbutz and a regular town. It's a communal agricultural community. In a kibbutz, the land belongs to the government. They helped establish kibbutzim. In a moshav, your house is your property, but your food is communal. And parents raise their own kids (as opposed to a kibbutz). We toured a moshav this afternoon where we were told that there are quotas of water and you can only grow what you have water to grow.
We learned more things about kibbutz today (and I think we'll also learn more on Saturday). Our particular kibbutz was built in 1947. It's 4x the size of the Old City of Jerusalem, and 400 people live here.
Back when the state of Israel was established the idea was that people should leave the city and live in a self-sufficient community. The higher calling was to be a farmer. Escape the bourgeoise. Embrace the proletariat. A lot of the immigrants were coming from Eastern Europe if this idea sounds communist / socialist to you... it's because it is. A utopia where everyone shares everything and everyone contributes. Especially in a time when there's not a lot of resources to go around, this way of living sounds great. That was the dream of the kibbutz. They were built on Israel's borders, again, to establish that this was supposed to be a Jewish nation. Kibbutzim are Jewish. There aren't any ultra-orthodox / Haredi kibbutz, but there are similarities in the way they both handle property.
In kibbutz 40 years ago, you would have children and then send them to live in the children's house in the kibbutz. The children didn't belong to you, they belonged to the community. Truly communal. If you worked outside the kibbutz, you would share you wages and the kibbutz would provide for your needs.
In 195o there was a huge wave of Arab immigrants and kibbutzim were not really a sustainable solution. Especially if you come from a place where communism isn't really taught or embraced.
The government built 'development towns' for these new immigrants. They would arrive in Israel (Israel is always recruiting Jews to move here. One of the other teachers, Mark, was approached at the Western Wall and given information about immigrating). and they would be put on a truck and taken town development towns and / or temporary housing. Having nomads inside your borders often causes problems for governments. Nomads don't pay taxes and they usually have a reputation of being thieves and robbers.
Many of these new immigrants went to work in kibbutzim, but didn't live there. Kibbutzim used to be very agriculture based, now not as much. They hire out agricultural work. Thai workers on work visas. most kibbutz members work in cities.
I recently finished a book called The Secret Life of Groceries that had a section on exploiting workers from Thailand. It had a really awful story about taking advantage of people living in poverty, sneaking them illegally into another country and then not paying them a living wage. They didn't have enough money to leave and they were afraid to escape because they knew they were illegal immigrants. They were severely physically abused. I know that isn't necessarily the case here, but I couldn't help but be reminded of outsourcing labor because it's cheaper. Possibly taking advantage?
There was lots of racial discrimination when they had Arab immigrants working on kibbutzim. Still is. Ori told us development towns are still looked down on. They receive less government funding. There's a town down here called Ofaqim, which is a development town. There are so many different types of places to live!
We also learned about moshav - somewhere between a kibbutz and a regular town. It's a communal agricultural community. In a kibbutz, the land belongs to the government. They helped establish kibbutzim. In a moshav, your house is your property, but your food is communal. And parents raise their own kids (as opposed to a kibbutz). We toured a moshav this afternoon where we were told that there are quotas of water and you can only grow what you have water to grow.
We also learned a lot about the 'Gaza Envelope' the area right next to the Gaza Strip. Hamas, a terrorist organization, controls the Gaza strip. There are civilians that live in Gaza. Palestinians live in the West Bank and in the Gaza Strip. The West Bank is run by the P.A. and cooperates more with the Israeli government. Hamas does not cooperate. They send rockets into Israel. If you live in a certain range of these missiles, the government of Israel pays for you to have a bomb shelter in your home. There are bomb shelters on the kibbutz where we're staying. We're about 5 km from Gaza and about 10 km from Egypt. #soclose.
Every bus stop has a bomb shelter next to it. The JNF funds the painting of many bomb shelters. To make them look more friendly? |
The first thing we did after breakfast, was visit ADI. A rehab center. They treat children with disabilities. This place was so inspiring. Here's their website.
It was founded by a man named Dolon Almog, a IDF military hero. He had a son with severe disabilities and found a day-care treatment center in Jerusalem, but wanted to built a town / community where people could live. He chose the middle of the desert because it's land no one wanted. Arguably his reputation helped him get the land, everyone knew and loved him- but the mayor of a neighboring town told him it was a stupid idea and no one would want to work with disabled kids. There's a TedTalk by Dolon on ADI's website. Elie was our guide at ADI. He took us around. He grew up in Maryland and came to Israel 14 years ago to work in PR. He's good at his job. He told us he worked for a different company for 11 years and ADI was one of their clients. He was so impressed with them, that he decided to work for ADI. They have 170 residents. Residents apply through Israel's National Insurance, and they decide who gets accepted. ADI is 80% government funded. The other 20% that's not covered? (which Elie told us pre-covid was around 5.5 million) People who 'age out' (over 21) but ADI lets them stay. Specialized / personalized equipment (like walkers, wheelchairs, and standing desks) also aren't always covered by insurance. Extra respiratory therapy during covid wasn't covered. Through donors and fundraising, the cost to parents is $0. Or, I should say, ₪0 It was an amazing tour. |
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They have a 'sensory garden'. Everything outside is meant to be touched. Elie told us that most of the plants are safe to eat. They have a staff that maintains those gardens, 26 gardeners with disabilities. He told us they get a fair wage and get raises when they meet goals.
They have a keyboard, bells that can be rung by pulling ropes, playground equipment that's wheelchair accessible, a bird sanctuary, a duck pond They have a special education school and a regular kindergarten next door. They also have a 'regular' school on their campus where kids from the community come and often interact with students from the special education school. |
They really do seem to put the residents first. As we were walking, some of the kids wanted us to come and play. One of the girls took over the tour and had us go down the slide a few times and try out the merry-go-round.
*Elie sent these pictures and encouraged us to post them on social media- I have permission to share these
We only interacted with the kids for a few minutes, but they seem genuinely happy. They're in an environment where they have more access to what they need and can live or go to school in an environment where their needs are met. Elie told us about how some of the residents who are non-verbal, work with cards / iPads that have symbols to communicate. For some of the residents they have a computer that follows eye movement, and the person blinks, it clicks. They also have symbols with pictures of everyone that student interacts with, so they can communicate their wants and needs. Things where they can communicate how they want to be fed. What flavor of pudding? What type of spoon? How fast do you want to be fed? He told us the story of one of the girls who can only move her eyes and her mouth, but she's non-verbal. The break-through was one day she was in front of her computer and they heard the voice prompt say "I want to go to the mall". She hadn't ever communicated successfully with the software before, so the aide thought it was a glitch and rebooted her computer. But she started it up and said that same thing. They asked who she wanted to go to the mall with, and she selected her mother and 6 siblings. When they called her mother to tell her, her mother burst into tears. She told them they had all gone to the mall the day before, but the mother never knew if her daughter enjoyed it. It was a really touching story. And I know, they were telling us these stories to get us to feel. But I felt the sincerity of the place. These people are doing really good things. |
Elie's vision goes beyond helping residents, they recently opened a hospital that serves people in the area. The patients can use the facilities for rehabilitation as well. They have in-patient and out-patient care.
They have gardens and nurseries that provide food for the facility and that can also be sold.
They have stables with horses. The current stable master believes that horses are more helpful / therapeutic if you don't ride them. Instead they teach them how to play games with the kids. And it's all based on choice. They don't force the horses or the kids to participate. But they train the horses to play soccer. Elie told us that he watched a kid playing 'red light green light' with a horse. And the horse would nudge the child when the person was turned around.
They have gardens and nurseries that provide food for the facility and that can also be sold.
They have stables with horses. The current stable master believes that horses are more helpful / therapeutic if you don't ride them. Instead they teach them how to play games with the kids. And it's all based on choice. They don't force the horses or the kids to participate. But they train the horses to play soccer. Elie told us that he watched a kid playing 'red light green light' with a horse. And the horse would nudge the child when the person was turned around.
![Picture](/uploads/4/9/8/9/49893023/published/img-6978.jpg?1657226377)
This place is truly unique. People move to Israel, just so their children came come here. Elie told us about one woman from the UK who found a facility, but the UK required her to sign away the rights to her child if she wanted to admit him. She wouldn't be able to visit.
At ADI parents can come and go as they please and take their kids with them whenever. There are programs, seminars, and counseling for siblings, parents, and grandparents of residents. Helping them understand and work through complicated emotions and problems they might have. Especially with the older generation, there was a lot of shame around having someone in the family with disabilities. Dolon talks about that in his TedTalk. I feel like I'm advertising, but I was really impressed with this place.
Elie told us that ADI is the most equal employer in all of Israel; Jewish, Muslim, Christian, Bedouin, Ethiopian, International volunteers. The residents also come from all walks of life. It's unusual to see that kind of conscious equality. We have all heard about instances where opportunities were provided to people- but different people have an easier time accessing those opportunities. In Israel, it seems that there are equal-access problems everywhere. ADI didn't seem that way though.
At ADI parents can come and go as they please and take their kids with them whenever. There are programs, seminars, and counseling for siblings, parents, and grandparents of residents. Helping them understand and work through complicated emotions and problems they might have. Especially with the older generation, there was a lot of shame around having someone in the family with disabilities. Dolon talks about that in his TedTalk. I feel like I'm advertising, but I was really impressed with this place.
Elie told us that ADI is the most equal employer in all of Israel; Jewish, Muslim, Christian, Bedouin, Ethiopian, International volunteers. The residents also come from all walks of life. It's unusual to see that kind of conscious equality. We have all heard about instances where opportunities were provided to people- but different people have an easier time accessing those opportunities. In Israel, it seems that there are equal-access problems everywhere. ADI didn't seem that way though.
"The key to making this work: anything that creates derision; religion, politics, is left at the door"
-Elie
Many members of the IDF (Israeli Defense Force) come to ADI for a day. Sensitivity training, but also they work in the garden. They're told that for the day they work for the gardeners, who might think and see the world differently than they do- but the soldiers have to do whatever the gardeners tell them to do.
I love the empowerment for a group of people who so often feels unempowered.
We looked at the inpatient clinic. We were told about a boy, who wasn't disabled, but went on a high school trip. He was sitting on the railing of the hotel, three stories up. He and his friends were drinking. When the chaperone came to bust them, he was startled and fell three stories. Landed on his head. He's unresponsive now. He has to be in a standing bed so he can breathe. His parents have no idea how much he understands about what's going on around him. At the ADI clinic the nurses talk to him and massage his hands and legs.
We toured the brand new hospital. All the rooms are on the ground floor. We saw the gym with the wheelchair accessible basketball hoops. Elie told us he wants all 'normal' basketball teams to come and practice there. He wants it to be a spot for everyone.
After learning a little bit more about the kibbutz... I felt like ADI is so much more inclusive. Even the communal kibbutz discriminates.
I love the empowerment for a group of people who so often feels unempowered.
We looked at the inpatient clinic. We were told about a boy, who wasn't disabled, but went on a high school trip. He was sitting on the railing of the hotel, three stories up. He and his friends were drinking. When the chaperone came to bust them, he was startled and fell three stories. Landed on his head. He's unresponsive now. He has to be in a standing bed so he can breathe. His parents have no idea how much he understands about what's going on around him. At the ADI clinic the nurses talk to him and massage his hands and legs.
We toured the brand new hospital. All the rooms are on the ground floor. We saw the gym with the wheelchair accessible basketball hoops. Elie told us he wants all 'normal' basketball teams to come and practice there. He wants it to be a spot for everyone.
After learning a little bit more about the kibbutz... I felt like ADI is so much more inclusive. Even the communal kibbutz discriminates.
ADI was just gifted a bunch of land, and Elie mentioned the goal is to build houses. He said they want the most accessible houses in the world. Smart houses that don't limit people with disabilities. For the gardeners. For the international volunteers. For the families of residents. And for anyone who wants to live and be part of the community.
He's got big dreams. He has started a competition that he wants to become worldwide, where students suggest designs for products that make life more accessible. We were given a wine cork to remember ADI "ADI is the 'jewel of the Negev' but it can't stay in the Negev" |
Anyway. I hope you felt at least a little bit of the inspiration I felt.
We went to a nearby town for a quick and delicious lunch:
We went to a nearby town for a quick and delicious lunch:
Then we went to a moshav. Talmel Tosef. They take tourists on tours of their farms. They call it 'The Salad Trail'.
Our guide here was Ivan. He grew up in Zimbabwe. He was Jewish. After studying in South Africa, he told his parents he didn't want to take over the family textile business and he and his sister moved to Israel. He's been here ever since. Ivan took us around and talked mostly about how they grow certain things. He showed us strawberries and we ate a couple.
He showed us peppers, and a few of the guys ate a couple 😂
Our guide here was Ivan. He grew up in Zimbabwe. He was Jewish. After studying in South Africa, he told his parents he didn't want to take over the family textile business and he and his sister moved to Israel. He's been here ever since. Ivan took us around and talked mostly about how they grow certain things. He showed us strawberries and we ate a couple.
He showed us peppers, and a few of the guys ate a couple 😂
He showed us a missile from Gaza and an Iron Dome missile produced in Israel. He told us a story of an experience he had watching the Iron Dome missiles take down the missile fired from Hamas.
We ate carrots and flowers.
We walked by a carob tree, they have small seeds in pods. I didn't know that that's where the concept of a 'carat' comes from. If a diamond is 3 carats, it weighs as much as 3 carob seeds. 💎
Ivan took us into the tomato greenhouse and told us to try every variety. My favorites were the redhead, zebra, and the blonde. They were the sweetest.
At the end of the tour, Ivan told a story about WWI soldiers using homing pigeons to report back info they gathered on the front lines. Then they gave a few of us pigeons and we released them.
Ivan took us into the tomato greenhouse and told us to try every variety. My favorites were the redhead, zebra, and the blonde. They were the sweetest.
At the end of the tour, Ivan told a story about WWI soldiers using homing pigeons to report back info they gathered on the front lines. Then they gave a few of us pigeons and we released them.
Are you sick of reading?
I know, I write a lot.
One thing I wish we had more of on this trip, is Palestinian perspective. We've heard so many stories of Israel persevering and Jews finding a place... but there's obvious conflict and discrimination. So much so, that the Palestinians aren't given a platform or a voice. I want to hear about what life is like in the West Bank. What life is like in Gaza. How the educational system affects kids who go to Arabic-speaking schools. We got a little taste with Amal, who is a Bedouin... but I want more. I want more of the story. It has been inspiring, but it feels very one-sided.
I know, I write a lot.
One thing I wish we had more of on this trip, is Palestinian perspective. We've heard so many stories of Israel persevering and Jews finding a place... but there's obvious conflict and discrimination. So much so, that the Palestinians aren't given a platform or a voice. I want to hear about what life is like in the West Bank. What life is like in Gaza. How the educational system affects kids who go to Arabic-speaking schools. We got a little taste with Amal, who is a Bedouin... but I want more. I want more of the story. It has been inspiring, but it feels very one-sided.
July 8
Third day in the Negev.
This morning we went to Mitzpe Revivim. Revivim means 'rain showers'. It's in the middle of the desert so the name was maybe meant to bring good luck to this small desert community? It's an old 'settlement' that's a museum / heritage site now. They've set up displays and even mannequins in the various areas of the place. It was established in 1943, only 60 Jews lived there at its height. In 1943, it was the most southern Jewish 'settlement'. Until 1949 when Eliat (on the Red Sea) became most southern point. It was part of the effort to establish Jewish presence to extend the borders of Israel. In fact, as the UN came and toured, looking for information on where to draw the partition line between Palestine and Israel, they visited Revivim and chose to give most of the Negev to the state of Israel. The UN representatives were given fresh flowers, cucumbers, and tomatoes to impress them with how much could be grown by the Jews in the desert. They say that the UN chose to give a huge chunk of the Negev to the Jews because of their experience in Revivim. |
I put 'settlement' in quotations, because in 1943 the British were in charge of the area and they were only letting 10,000 Jews immigrate to Israel each year. And they weren't allowed to establish settlements. (White Paper)
I've told you about Ben Gurion, (first Prime Minister, a heroic figure to the Jews in establishing Israel) he wanted kibbutzim to line the borders of Israel. So that when you turned off all other lights, the kibbutzim lights would show you the borders of the land. Jews were sent to the desert to establish these settlements and a presence in the staes. In the 1940s the desert was really sparsely populated. 14,000 Bedouins and 1,000 Jews. And in terms of ancient times, they didn't really value setting up bustling cities in the Negev. The Byzantine Empire had a city - Shivta. The only real city down here (there are settlements, development towns, and kibbutz all over) is Be'er Sheva. |
More and more I'm feeling like we're just getting fed all of these stories about how the Jews triumph over the Palestinians and it seems like such a one-sided story. Other than Amal, we really haven't had an official native view about the Jews coming in and setting up a state in Israel. As we toured Revivim and all the displays talked about these brave Jewish pioneers... I'm not saying they weren't important... but to the Palestinians, these were colonialists. Invaders. Usurpers. White Europeans (the settlers in Revivim were Ashkenazi from Eastern Europe) who were trying to settle the desert. And it sounds like at first, the local Bedouins didn't mind.. because the desert isn't necessarily prime real-estate.... but these people keep talking about their proud history and I wish they would acknowledge the parts that might have been unfair.
And the conflict today is less about religious differences and more about nationalism and who the land 'belongs' to. And when I say 'conflict' it's not an active war- it's two groups of people who are uneasy with their circumstances and that occasionally results in violence. Like in 2017, 35 rockets were launched from Palestinian territory to Israel. But in 2021, it was like 3,440. Also keep in mind, Israel responds violently too.
Tonight shabbat starts and we have a 'day off' tomorrow. We can't go anywhere, we're in a kibbutz in the middle of the desert. So, it'll be a nice relaxing pool day 😊
And the conflict today is less about religious differences and more about nationalism and who the land 'belongs' to. And when I say 'conflict' it's not an active war- it's two groups of people who are uneasy with their circumstances and that occasionally results in violence. Like in 2017, 35 rockets were launched from Palestinian territory to Israel. But in 2021, it was like 3,440. Also keep in mind, Israel responds violently too.
Tonight shabbat starts and we have a 'day off' tomorrow. We can't go anywhere, we're in a kibbutz in the middle of the desert. So, it'll be a nice relaxing pool day 😊
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When we were driving yesterday, we saw a little settlement in the distance. Ori told us that the Israeli government built an automated / computer controlled model of a city in Gaza that they call 'Little Gaza' where IDF soldiers train.
Ori told us it is one of the most expensive IDF projects. The soldiers use laser guns in the city so they don't damage the project. Here's more info about it. We also met a couple kibbutniks. Our guide, Ori's best friend Ben, is raising his family in a kibbutz. He grew up in a moshav but his wife is a kibbutznik. |
A kibbutznik is a person who lives / grows up in a kibbutz. There's a stereotype that they're a little stuck up about being from a kibbutz and that they only accept their own (it's really hard to live in a kibbutz if you weren't born into it). We also met three teenagers who opened up Mitzpe Revivim and asked them about kibbutzim. I asked if they wanted to live / raise a family in a kibbutz. All 3 said no. I thought that was interesting.
Ben explained that a kibbutz is heaven for kids. Ori has said the same to us before too. That you run around barefoot and play all day. Ben said it's heaven for kids and for the elderly, but it's kind of isolated for young adults. Small town life 'ya know?
As I've been walking around the kibbutz we're staying at, it does feel like a really close community. A great place for kids to grow up. Not so different from a really social suburban area in Utah maybe? The stereotypical ideal suburban life, with the added isolation of being in the middle of a desert and living very communally (shared clothes / food / housing)... that's a kibbutz. But that's just my assessment. Take it with a grain of salt. 🧂
Ben explained that a kibbutz is heaven for kids. Ori has said the same to us before too. That you run around barefoot and play all day. Ben said it's heaven for kids and for the elderly, but it's kind of isolated for young adults. Small town life 'ya know?
As I've been walking around the kibbutz we're staying at, it does feel like a really close community. A great place for kids to grow up. Not so different from a really social suburban area in Utah maybe? The stereotypical ideal suburban life, with the added isolation of being in the middle of a desert and living very communally (shared clothes / food / housing)... that's a kibbutz. But that's just my assessment. Take it with a grain of salt. 🧂
July 9
Today was marked by good conversations at lunch, good conversations at dinner, and a beautiful golden hour :)
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July 10
This morning we headed to the development town of Yeruham. We drove just outside of town to see the Makhtesh Crater.
Ori had us listen to a desert song, about an American cowboy? But it's sung in Hebrew. I thought it was poetic to film it in the background while watching the Negev go by out the window. |
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After stopping at the crater, we headed to MindCet a company that helps startups, entrepreneurs, and educators. They talked to us about EdTech. Some of their stuff was pretty cool. Fun to see- some might be applicable for me to use in the classroom
After a few hours doing workshops at MindCet we went and had lunch with Shula Knafo. She told us a little bit about her life story (from Morocco, grew up in Yeruham, pretty poor). Debbie Golan joined us and told us more about their non-profit organization Atid BaMidbar. If you're interested in learning more, read this.
Sounds like they both have done a lot to help their community. Also MindCet works with schools in Yeruham (also globally, but a lot of their tech ideas they try out at local schools)
Sounds like they both have done a lot to help their community. Also MindCet works with schools in Yeruham (also globally, but a lot of their tech ideas they try out at local schools)
You can't see all the food, but of course you have all your salads and spreads (beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, bread, potato salad)
And then the main dish(es) started with really fine cuscus and this delicious stew with fennel and carrots that must have been simmering for hours. The flavors were so good. There were also meatballs that were really juicy, cooked with peas. And chicken- which I didn't try, but they said it was fall-off-the-bone delicious.
After lunch, Ori took us to collect different colored rocks and sand in the desert.
For dinner, we ate at a pizza place on the kibbutz. It was really good. Because everything has to be kosher- they don't serve meat with dairy. Meaning, if the pizza has cheese, it doesn't have meat. My kind of pizza :)
July 11
It's our last full day down here. In the desert. The first thing we did this morning was head to Sde Boker. Another kibbutz. Are you sensing a desert theme here? 😉
There are actually more kibbutzim in the north, but THIS one was the kibbutz where David Ben Gurion chose to retire. We walked through his home. Learned a little bit more about his life. Israelis LOVE David Ben Gurion. I didn't realize how much. He was compared to George Washington for Americans. But many Americans don't revere George as much as they used to. So Ori told us Ben Gurion is more loved by Israelis than George Washington is by Americans.
There are actually more kibbutzim in the north, but THIS one was the kibbutz where David Ben Gurion chose to retire. We walked through his home. Learned a little bit more about his life. Israelis LOVE David Ben Gurion. I didn't realize how much. He was compared to George Washington for Americans. But many Americans don't revere George as much as they used to. So Ori told us Ben Gurion is more loved by Israelis than George Washington is by Americans.
In name, Israel is a democracy, but even Ori admitted that in practice it's not. David Ben Gurion was king. 👑 Ori used the term 'king' instead of 'dictator'. And it seems that a lot of Israelis believe (from the movies we've watched and some people we've talked to) that Ben Gurion was being assertive when he made sweeping decisions about how Israel would work. And people still interpret it as heroic. That he was making decisions the people didn't want at the time, but decisions that were good for Israel.
Did you know Israel doesn't have a Constitution? It operated using British common law and then added a bunch of laws in 1992. They have a Declaration of Independence and a bunch of laws, but no Constitution. That's wild to me. Makes their uneasiness comparing Ben Gurion to Washington even more interesting. You can read more about the Constitution thing... here.
After touring the kibbutz at Sde Boker, we headed to the site of David and Paula's grave. Paula was Ben Gurion's wife. He chose to be buried in the desert. It was pointed out to us that his grave is fairly modest because he didn't want to obstruct the desert view... but if you turn around there's a giant building that houses a lot of his writings.
The park they built where he's buried is really beautiful. We saw a lot of ibex again.
Did you know Israel doesn't have a Constitution? It operated using British common law and then added a bunch of laws in 1992. They have a Declaration of Independence and a bunch of laws, but no Constitution. That's wild to me. Makes their uneasiness comparing Ben Gurion to Washington even more interesting. You can read more about the Constitution thing... here.
After touring the kibbutz at Sde Boker, we headed to the site of David and Paula's grave. Paula was Ben Gurion's wife. He chose to be buried in the desert. It was pointed out to us that his grave is fairly modest because he didn't want to obstruct the desert view... but if you turn around there's a giant building that houses a lot of his writings.
The park they built where he's buried is really beautiful. We saw a lot of ibex again.
They have these super bright towers in the desert, apparently GE was doing an experiment with power. They were trying to heat water with mirrors and reflectors and then harness the energy of the steam? I didn't look into it. That's just what I remember being told. They're really distracting from the road. And this one we drove by today had a strange reflection. I think the real explanation probably is related to aliens. |
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At the park with David Ben Gurion's grave- Ori had us play some games. One was a water bottle / cup challenge where we had to transfer water but couldn't touch anything, and there was another where me and Mel had to try and untangle ourselves.
We had lunch near the gravesite at Knaania. They had a really good pecan tart there. 😋
After lunch we went to Beit HaShanti or the Shanti House. It's a place where teens (ages 14-21) can go to escape domestic violence or homelessness. It's run off of donations, and youth have to get permission from parents - but it seemed like a really cool place. They provide medical care, emotional care, and physical care.
They talked about how the teens respond when they arrive. How the goal is to give them a safe place. We were asked what we thought the first question the Shanti staff ask the kids when they arrive. After they shower and eat.
I thought about that for a second. What would you ask a teenager that's been through homelessness or abuse who has come to a place and you want them to feel safe?
They ask them "What is your dream?" And then they work hard to make that dream happen. One kid said he'd been bullied his whole life for having his ears stick out. So, they worked with the kid over a series of years, and before he went off to the IDF they got him a plastic surgeon to work on his ears. They're showing these kids that what's important to the kids is important to them. Listening. Respecting. Loving. That's what humans want.
We went around and saw their pool and some of the gardens. They took us to their dance studio and one of the guys who used to be a resident there, (now an adult volunteer) taught us a Tik Tok dance 😂
After lunch we went to Beit HaShanti or the Shanti House. It's a place where teens (ages 14-21) can go to escape domestic violence or homelessness. It's run off of donations, and youth have to get permission from parents - but it seemed like a really cool place. They provide medical care, emotional care, and physical care.
They talked about how the teens respond when they arrive. How the goal is to give them a safe place. We were asked what we thought the first question the Shanti staff ask the kids when they arrive. After they shower and eat.
I thought about that for a second. What would you ask a teenager that's been through homelessness or abuse who has come to a place and you want them to feel safe?
They ask them "What is your dream?" And then they work hard to make that dream happen. One kid said he'd been bullied his whole life for having his ears stick out. So, they worked with the kid over a series of years, and before he went off to the IDF they got him a plastic surgeon to work on his ears. They're showing these kids that what's important to the kids is important to them. Listening. Respecting. Loving. That's what humans want.
We went around and saw their pool and some of the gardens. They took us to their dance studio and one of the guys who used to be a resident there, (now an adult volunteer) taught us a Tik Tok dance 😂
We got back to our kibbutz and I spent some time at the pool. Then dinner and guitar jam sesh 👇